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How To Create Natural Lighting in the Studio
What is it about natural lighting that seems so superior to a traditionally-lit studio setup? Is it that the light is warmer? Is it because it is usually balanced throughout the image? Does it create a more successful photograph because it is recognizable as being all-natural?
Interestingly enough, the primary reason that most people like the “looks” of natural lighting in a photograph is due primarily to the fact that it is usually diffuse light. It is not harshly directed or coming from a single source, and is usually extremely flattering to the subject – regardless of it being several items in a still life or a the face of a smiling person.
Can you re-create this more favourable lighting scenario in the studio setting? Actually, many professional and amateur photographers have created their own setups to reproduce the diffusion that occurs in the world of natural. Some might use inexpensive materials and others might purchase costly professional reflectors, but all seek to eliminate the angular shadows and artificial coloration that comes from a studio fixture.
One of the simplest approaches is to create a custom wall or surface to control the effects of a lighting element. For example, many photographers position their subjects near a wall or even a large piece of slightly angled Styrofoam, and then point a one thousand to fifteen hundred watt theatrical scoop pointing from the floor and straight up the wall or the custom reflector.
This bounces a remarkably diffuse light onto the subject and creates soft shadows and an overall warm glow that is easy to adjust. Of course, the complete lighting setup for such an image would have to be carefully crafted to allow the background lighting to remain effective too.
You see, this is the biggest challenge to creating natural lighting in the studio – balancing it in the same way that it exists in the natural world. While a photographer may always be seeking directional lighting that allows them to capture remarkable effects of light or shade, generally, the natural world has light reflecting and bouncing everywhere. This means that such patterns should be incorporated into a studio setting that is being developed to replicate the natural world.
Usually, a photographer will opt for silver/gold reflectors to create softer lighting that doesn’t create harder shadows. These are often the most affordable, portable, and flexible professional options, and they can really add a natural “glow” to the subject while also allowing darker areas of a studio to receive the same treatment too.
Article by...
Amy Renfrey
Digital Photographer, Digital Photography Teacher & Author
www.SuccessfulDigitalPhotography.com
Last Week's New Articles...
An Introduction to Animal Portraiture

Photo by Benjamin Earwicker
When photographers think of animal portraiture they tend to imagine one of two possible groups of animals – the formal domestic pets or the wild animals. For this discussion we will take a quick look at each style and consider how to get the best effects.
Before attempting to photograph animals of any kind (wild or domestic) it is important to a bit of study or research. For example, if you plan to find the nesting area of some Great Horned Owls and wait for them to emerge at dusk, you might also need to know their general habits, whether or not they are hostile, and how they might react to your presence. Additionally, your research might make it much easier to locate the birds in the first place and to stake out a better spot to photograph them.
The research for the domestic portrait is more observational and simply requires the photographer to visit the animal, or animals, home and allow them to get used to their equipment and their person. This is an ideal way to also learn a bit about an animal’s personality which can then be captured in the photographs taken.
For example, if a few house cats are very comedic and seem to enjoy making their human housemates laugh, you will be able to observe this and figure out a few ways to get their humour on film. If, however, an animal is more serious and dignified you will quickly discover this as well, and your time spent in observation can allow you to mentally prepare your camera for the best shots.

Photo by Joe Leahy
Where wildlife is concerned, however, the observation process may not be so easy and can even necessitate the use of blinds or hiding places. When you do locate the position you will use for your photographic sessions, you will want to remember to put your camera into silent mode and disable the flash unit.
What if you need the flash? You may want to reconsider this because there are few animals whose eyes do not reflect the light back at the sensor, and this can often ruin the quality of the image. Additionally, you may permanently “spook” an animal from the area by blasting them with a flash unexpectedly. If you absolutely must have additional light, you will want to try to use ambient lighting and camera settings whenever possible.
Naturally, this may be very difficult in cases such as nocturnal animals.
Consider that you will probably use a slower telephoto lens that with the
camera mounted on a tripod to prevent shake, and without the flash the
shutter speed may be too slow. If you absolutely must add a flash to your
gear you may want to add a flash extender which projects the light in a bit
of a diffused and less startling manner.
Article by...
Amy Renfrey
Digital Photographer, Digital Photography Teacher & Author
www.SuccessfulDigitalPhotography.com









